Liya Kebede for LANVIN Fall/Winter '08

 

Sadly Liya has to share this campaign with Raquel Zimmerman but that doesn't stop her from looking stunning. 

Source: Luxx and Skywire/TFS

Vanity Fair Magazine - 9/2008 - A League of Their Own

I spotted this at TFS (posted by Miss NYC.) I no longer have a subscription to Vanity Fair but I'll see if I can scan a readable version of the article by this weekend.

No comment on Naomi's booty.

Source: TFS via FWD

Naomi Stars in Photographer's Political Short Film

Naomi Campbell, the hardest working black woman in the fashion industry, is currently starring in an 'untitled' short film about fashion and racism by photographer Nick Knight. Knight's first political fashion film tackled the issues of feminism and body size. In the film Knight explores why racism persists in the fashion industry that historically has thrived on innovation and inclusion. 

You can watch the film here.

There really isn't much to it. It lasts a little over two minutes. In it, Ms. Campbell wears two dresses (one black, one white get it?)  by Rodarte and shoes by Christian Louboutin. She stands in front of a solid background holding two semi-automatic weapons pointed at the camera. The camera shifts from focusing on her to showing text written by Knight on his experiences.

Text explains that although Knight has worked for a variety of clients in the industry, he is rarely allowed to photograph black models. The reasons for this are rarely given but he says he has been told that black models are "not right for the brand" or "aspirational" enough for some markets. He goes on to say that he feels guilty for accepting this racism and further allowing it to be normalized in the industry. He goes on to say that "by denying people the right to be seen as beautiful, you cause deep cultural resentment," and that "profit can not be a justification for bigotry and racism."

Naomi starts firing the guns. Her expression vacillating between dourness and joy. At one point she's seen sitting on a tank, straddling the long black tank gun. Then the film ends.

Do I get the imagery? Not really. I don't get why she has to be holding a machine gun. Hasn't that been done before? Is Wright trying to frighten viewers but outfitting the often temperamental model with a weapon able to cause more damage than a cell phone? Whatever the meaning behind it, I was encouraged a bit to see someone in the industry acknowledge their own part in perpetuating this problem.

I'd like to hear what you think of it.

Source:NYMag, Showstudio, Ferry Coal

Queen of the Jungle or Tarzan's Side Piece?

As I mentioned in the previous post, one of the more shameful things about this month's Vogue Italia is the lack of black models featured in the ads. There is a multi-page Pinko ad featuring Naomi, a Quodlibet advertisement with Sessilee alongside two other models, and an ad by lingerie and swimwear retailer Yamamay (they're like the Italian Victoria's Secret.) Of the three, the Yamamay ad is definitely the most...interesting.

First of all, it's a swimwear ad so there's a lot of eye-catching baby oiled flesh to be had. Secondly, the model in the ad is dark-skinned, and lastly her bikini has that animal print thing going on.

I know I talk a lot about animal print on this blog and it might give you in impression that I hate it but I don't really. I have a scarves, handbags and jewelry that has various animal print themes on them. Everything in moderation right? The reason I dislike seeing black models in print wearing animal print garb is because it happens just a bit too often. I'm really beginning to think that it might be the first thing that pops into a photographer or editors mind when they see a black person.

So what's the big deal? I mean, the model is lovely with a flawless complexion. Can't a sister just hang out in a tree wearing a leopard two piece without somebody getting snippy? My answer is not really or at least not in this ad. When there are only a handful of images of black women out there, every one of them will get scrutinized. What is she wearing? How is she posing? What's her expression? The list of questions goes on from there. I've been double taking on images of black women for so long it's just second nature to me.

Honestly, if I saw tons of ads with all kinds of black and other non-white models in magazines all the time then maybe I wouldn't think twice about the really shiny lady chilling in the tree.

For the curious, below are a few more of the collection's images from the Yamamay website.

All the Models are Black, (Nearly) All the Ads are White

So it has finally happened. Thanks to the beautiful and talented Camille, I now have a copy of Vogue Italia's much discussed ode to the black model. My feelings about this issue have run the gamut from excitement to reserve to disappointment and back again as spread after spread was leaked onto the Internet.

Yes, there was animal print. No there were not many advertisements with black models in them. Yes it is all in Italian. No I can't read it. Yes that pisses me off.

The first few pages of the magazine are full of ads that represent the Who's Who of top fashion labels. There's Valentino, Prada, Gucci, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel. All of the ads featuring white models and actresses. Ad sales in this issue were up 30% according to WWD. That just doesn't happen with summer magazines. Even telephone book sized upcoming September issues are feeling the pinch with American Vogue's 50 page drop from last year and an overall page decline of 4%. Clearly these advertisers anticipated that the (gimmick maybe?) presence of black faces would translate into big sales. They were right. For the first time ever, the issue is being reprinted to meet demand. But to me it seems there is still a disconnect.

So what about those pictures? There were new faces (including Hollis) in the comp card "You Have a Go-see" spread and a line-up of "Hey, I recognize that face!" photos in the "Modern Luxe" spread. There was Tocarra, and Naomi and Liya and Chanel.

A few phenomenal looking spreads, a few dull ones. Lots of pictures of lonely models. With Meisel snapping all the pics there is only one point of view represented. There's none of Thierry Le Gouès sensuality or Tim Walker's dreaminess and color. There's just what Meisel gives us in this cattle call for the ages.

Solo images. A camera flash and you're in. I can almost hear Meisel's assistant ticking off the names as the models line up in this high fashion mugshot to get registered on Vogue Italia's pristine pages. Old faces. Legendary faces, Newer faces. Click and they're done. Here's your toaster. Thank you for being our Negress under glass.

Most of these women don't even get props to work with. Just a colorless background and if they're lucky, clothes. I mean, wouldn't it have really been something if Toccara was wearing something from a fall collection? I did wonder why the mechanics in her spread appeared to be Latino instead of a racially mixed group or even just black guys. All I have to say is that I never want to be hanging around in a garage or the trunk of a car in my skivvies. Not even with the guys from Car Talk.

Naomi's spread is solo. In it she's reduced to looking like a Russian billionaire's Desperate Housewife or better yet modern day Marie Antoinette without lavish wardrobe or the friends.

Which brings me back to the articles. There are many touching on everything under the sun: There's Michelle Obama, Spike Lee's "Miracle at St. Anna," an interview with Naomi Campbell highlighting her humanitarian side, a profile on Timothy Greenfield-Sanders' upcoming book and HBO documentary "The Black List," a profile on Essence and Ebony magazines, a look-back at Donyale Luna by fashion photographer Edmonde Charles-Roux, an interview with (South?) African jazz musician Simphiwe Dana, an article about modern black artists, a two page article on Tyra Banks the mogul , another article profiles models Carol La Brie, Pat Cleveland, and Donyale Luna, Grace Jones, and then another profile of "Outstanding Ladies" like Aretha, Tina and Latifah. Lastly, there is a conversation with Bethanne Hardison by Veronica Chambers.

By the time I'm done flipping through the magazine, I'm angry that it's full of articles I want to read but can't and probably never will (Bablefish will only get you so far) because I know that there isn't a fashion and lifestyle publication written in English that would bother to publish an issue full of stories like this.

So I have my magazine, and I am sure I will look at it often but now that the anticipation is gone and my enthusiam has dwindled, I wonder what's next. Will it change anything or has this become a quick fix financial savior for Vogue Italia to be archived and never spoken of again?

Does this special issue just legitimize the notion that white is "normal" while black is nice to look at but "special" and not good enough to be mainstreamed?

Honestly, I would have been more impressed if the runway report special issue included with the magazine had more black faces. But then, designers really don't need to hire black faces for the runway when black celebrities are more than happy to model and celebrate those designs for free on the red carpet.

I'm just glad I can finally close the chapter on this issue. Whew!

Everyone Loves a Baldie

I never had fashion magazines in my home when I was very young. Up until I was 8, I thought the only magazines in the world were Jet, Life, Ebony, Essence,  TV Guide and that magazine that Jehovah's Witnesses hold at bus stops. 

Even though I'm sure I had some knowledge of the who's who of black models from back in the day  like Beverly Johnson, Naomi Sims and Iman the only one who really struck me back then was Pat Evans. Pat was known as "that bald lady" in my house where she was the source of much controversy. My mother could not get around that fact that a black woman would choose to be a baldie. "Why can't she just wear a wig? She looks like a man!" was the common refrain of my mother, aunts and cousins.

I thought Pat was fierce and a little frightening. I remember just sitting and staring at her photos in magazines. She could hold my attention much easier than any homework assignment. In my mind, any woman that had the nerve to be bald on purpose had to be a "right on" chick.

Pat was from the Sugar Hill section of Harlem and was a dancer. When she danced with the troupe Olatunji she started wearing a afro. It was the group's trademark look. In the 1960s when she started modeling she was told to straighten her hair and wear carry around an afro wig with her to bookings.  

...I got really mad about that, because all of my life it's been good hair/bad hair you know. That same day I saw a little girl skipping down the street with a sweater on her hair. I thought, my sister and I used to do that when we were little. It was a game called White Girl. I said to myself, this means nothing has changed. And I shaved my head.

But she still had to pay the bills so that afro wig was still worn over her bald head for work.  She did a fitting for Stephen Burrows in which she had to squeeze into a tiny dress. When she took it off the wig came off with it. Burrows was surprised and Evans begged him not to tell her agency that she was an undercover no-hair. Burrows insisted on using her in his show without the wig and her career took off.

Evans herself was a bold as her personal style. She sent tongues wagging when she wrote in Essence Magazine that "black modeling is just another form of prostitution" and criticized the racist attitudes in the industry and predatory photographers. She said that modeling would never be an "open" profession for black people until there were more black owned agencies, products, magazines and above all "black owned minds."

Really, that article could have been written yesterday is still holds so much truth.

Beauty Tips from ELLE

Every now and then I run across a tip in a fashion magazine that sticks with me. Usually these helpful tips get added to my mental "to do" list but never really implemented. Like drinking water and taking some of those vitamins I keep stockpiling in my medicine cabinet. For whatever reason, this tip by beauty editor Kate Growney moved me to action:

Elle: I hear you have an interesting way of whitening your teeth.

KG: I rinse with a tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide for 10 minutes once per week. Peroxide is non-toxic and in all the tooth bleaches. My dentist says swishing does the same thing.

This is a tip I couldn't let go, especially since I just happened to buy way more peroxide than I would ever need last time I was at Costco. So I tried it this morning, and it wasn't that bad. I used way more than a tablespoon because forgot the proper dosage so after the first few swishes, I looked like a rabid dog. Let me also just share this with you, ten minutes is a really long time in swish land. My cheeks started hurting around minute number two. When it was over, my mouth was still bubbly for another few minutes, even after I rinsed again with water. 

I wonder how long I have to keep this up to see any improvement. Right now I just have a weird taste in my mouth and off-white teeth.

Handbaga Dentata?

There is nothing I love more than a chic little clutch bag. I just think they add a dose of sophistication to any little bag dress. After all, who wants the strap of a shoulder bag digging into their arm after a night on the town? Clutches keep you from bringing any more than the essentials; are small and sleek enough to place daintily on the bar when you order your cocktail; and give you something to do with at least one of your hands when you're dancing. There is nothing more embarrassing than repeatedly side swiping the person dancing next to you with your overstuffed handbag while attempting to do the electric slide at your cousin Pookie's wedding.

All that aside I'm not sure if I'd feel comfortable stuffing my credit card, lipstick, and breath mints into this snakeskin (?) clutch by Salvatore Ferragamo. Is it just me or does this look a little like pulled back scaly lady bits? All I want to do when I look at this is rub ointment on it.

ETA: The ads for this vagina bag keep getting funnier.

In Other Blogs...

Continuing on the theme of brown people as props in ads and editorials  is this truly excellent post on hipster racism in Nylon Magazine published at Threadbared. Below is short excerpt but do yourself a favor and check out the full post. It is extremely well-written and thought provoking. On a side note, does this image reminds anyone else of those old Baby Phat ads that featured Kimora Lee Simmons surround by housekeepers and nannies?

There's much to be said about Beth Ditto, fat and fashion, but the above photograph from Ditto's eight-page editorial in NYLON's recent music issue is about none of these things for me. It's about the woman who may or may not be a real housekeeper at the motel at 

which this editorial was photographed, sitting on the edge of the bed with a handful of cards and gazing at Ditto with a weary but guarded expression. In the story that coalesces for me, studying this photograph, she has just been forced to play cards with a guest -- not because she wants to, but because she could lose her job if she doesn't. Nor does the game even feel like a break from her domestic labor; this sort of affective labor is no less taxing. In her mind (in the story I imagine about this editorial), she calculates how much longer she'll have to stay and clean in order to meet her day's quota.

The Obamas on the Cover of People Magazine

Why is Michelle just a floating head in this photo? The longer I look at this, the weirder it seems.

There's Still Hope as More Copies of Italian Vogue Go to Press

The nationwide frenzy for this issue is still going strong despite all of the images being leaked onto the Internet. Condé Nast (who has been suffering from slumping ads sales lately) has decided to print an additional 10K copies bagged with “Most Wanted Issue Ever/First Reprint” taglines blazing across the front.

If this was a publicity stunt it worked. Everybody in the industry seems to be talking about the issue though for the most part they remain mum on if they will start using more black models in their publications. 

According to Folio Magazine, ad pages "were up 30 percent for the July issue, but there was a 'glaring lack of black models' in them." Adds issue photographer Steven Meisel, 'I’ve asked my advertising clients so many times, 'Can we use a black girl?' They say no. Advertisers say black models don't sell.' 

Oh the irony.

This brings to mind often repeated method used by fledgling television networks. Use black shows to lure in new viewers and once you've got them, replace all the black faces on the now established network with white ones. 

Will the Black Issue turn out to be publishing industry's  "Martin, " "Living Single" or "Moesha"?

Diahann Carroll Profile - Vogue - August 2008

It's an interesting profile, definitely worth reading.

Vogue - August 2008

This month's Vogue is called  "The Age(less) Issue" and according to the cover text, is Vogue's guide to "looking amazing at every decade on every budget." I didn't see much inside that was devoted to budgets in the $60K salary range which is the average yearly salary of a Vogue reader but we can't be nitpicky right?

The cover model this month is Kate Moss, who to my eye looks every bit of her 34 years. The adjoining article covers her rise from supermodel to business tycoon. Yeah, she makes a lot of money and browsing the ads inside the magazine, she appears to still be getting a hell of a lot of work. Yet somehow, "tycoon" doesn't come to mind when I see her but whatever.

There isn't much that sets this issue apart from typical issues of Vogue but there are a few high points. For one, gorgeous Chinese actress Ziyi Zhang, who always looks flawless on the red carpet, is also featured in a profile that includes a brief photo spread of her looking, well flawless. Why isn't she on the cover in place of Kate? Because this is American Vogue, get your head out of the sand. Covers are for people who don't sell issues like Gwenyth Paltrow.

Like the "shape" issue, this one is full of spreads of twenty something skinny models, only this time instead of the shape issue's lineup of short skinny models, pregnant skinny model and tall skinny model, Vogue has young skinny models modeling clothes for women in every age bracket. Why they're don't use women who are actually 50 to model the clothes for the fifty-something woman is never touched upon. There is a piece on former supermodels like Yasmin Le Bon which recovering Duran Duran fans like me will appreciate. John Taylor was always my boyfriend of the group but I was glad the Yasmin was featured instead of that wench Renee Simonsen who I'm still mad at for having the nerve to be engaged to him back when I was the one who needed a date to the prom. 

Wow. I didn't realize I was still so angry about that.

This is not to imply that the August issue has no redeeming value. There are actually a few other things worth checking out this month.

For one, in an effort to maybe quiet the comparisons to Essence Magazine's annual "black don't crack" issue, this one actually features a non-white woman in the line-up. 73 year old Diahann Carroll is profiled and looks fabulous. It's actually nice to see a woman of such sophistication and grace get props on the pages of this rag. My favorite quote from the article is from Diahann's upcoming memoir:

[In the 1970s her career took a downturn Carroll found herself driving a fancy car in need of repair. This was the] "worst message you could send." "Show business had already started to change... Around that time I remember quite clearly the sight of a bright yellow Bentley convertible coming at me on Coldwater Canyon Drive... Behind the wheel of this lurid yellow car was a tiny black woman with a huge head of hair flying around in the wind. As she drove past me, I recognized it was Diana Ross. 'There goes the neighborhood,' I muttered to myself'

Yeah, I've got to read that book.

Second, rags to riches socialite and jewelry designer Genevieve Jones contributed a few paragraphs about her recent trip to Thailand which no doubt will piss off people who think she has no right to be a socialite in the first place.

Lastly, there is a profile on one of my favorite new musical artists Janelle Monae whom I hope becomes really big really soon. I just love everything about this girl. Sadly, there is only one photo of her but it was enough to make me do a happy dance when I saw it.

So while this issue isn't perfect, I still think it's worth picking up or reading while you're waiting at the bookstore for that second shipment of Vogue Italia to come in.

Mary J. Blige in Allure - August 2008

As much as I love her music I'm not always a fan of the way Mary dresses. She always seems a little stiff and uncomfortable in her red carpet clothing. I also think that the arm tattoos tend to cheapen her overall look at dressy affairs. My favs from this spread are the green Alexander McQueen gown and zebra print slightly sheer gown she wore in Cannes, France back in May. Of course, at the end of the day who cares? She's still Mary.

Who is She Kidding?

I was paging through an recent issue of Lucky when I came across this spread. Now, I don't personally know Laurie Trott (the editor  that put these looks together.) She might be a perfectly nice person who works at soup kitchens in her spare time and reads to the elderly but she needs to be called out for trying to convince readers that these Dolce & Gabbana pants are anything but ass backwards ugly. I mean c'mon, brocade bell bottoms? Who the hell would wear this shit? I wouldn't take these home if I found them on the bus. I don't care how she tries to dress them up with a "curvy jacket," "tiered top" or "earthy scarf," these pants look like couch cushions that house guests have been farting into for the last twenty-five years. 

Mounia Remembers YSL

From W Magazine (8/08)

I was his first black muse...He helped open the door for black models. Sometimes I was his confidante, and I would sometimes inspire his creativity. He called me Moumounn. The collection that made me a celebrity was the one inspired by Porgy and Bess. I wore a pink pantsuit and a boater hat. I walked to 'Summertime' and really took on the character of Bess. Catherine Deneuve stood up and started clapping. The everyone stood up and called out 'Bravo!' Yves Saint Laurent peered around the curtain - a thing that he had never done before - to see what all of the commotion was about. The people were shouting 'Bravo, Yves Saint Laurent!' and 'Brava, Mouina!' He took me in his arms, and we kissed. This for me was history...After that I had more than 15 covers...Mr. Fairchild gave me my first cover [of WWD], and [French Vogue's] Francine Crescent gave me 27 pages. This was the first time that a black model had arrived in haute couture. I say thank you to Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent and thank you to Monsieur Pierre Bergé. My last word for Yves Saint Laurent is 'love.'

Source: W Magazine, Sepia

Nylon Magazine - August 2008

This is how much I care about NYLON magazine. I have a free subscription to the hipster primer and I still want to cancel it. I couldn't even get up enough interest to read the travel diary on Kenya in this month's issue. This month's issue is all about denim. There's a piece by one of the writers on her visit to The Gap  headquarters in San Francisco in which she writes about making a pair or jeans or something. I didn't really read that all the way through either, just stared for a moment at the photo of The Gap's cute as pie Creative Director Patrick Robinson.

There is also an ad (see above) for DKNY Jeans featuring Chanel Iman in which she's styled to look like Tyrone Biggum's kid sister.

Really, the only thing in the entire magazine that kept it from immediately hitting the recycle bin was this letter to the editor:

dear nylon,

Your ass history piece in the April issue is fucking laughable. You can give props to Applebottom Jeans all you want; the only ladies of color in the magazine were in the street fashion spread.

Olivia - Urbana, IL

I can only hope that Olivia's letter was severely edited and that she really let them have it. This is a girl after my own heart.

source: TFS

Black Chicks Love Booze

Something I've noticed over the last few years is that I see alot more black female models used in alcohol advertisements. Now, I'm not talking about the ads that target black consumers (like the vintage ad below) but the ones that I see in mainstream fashion and lifestyle titles. And yes, by "mainstream" I mean magazines white people read. 

I'm never really sure how to process the images. Does it allude to some kind of racial utopia where men and women, no matter what their race, can get dressed up and shitfaced together in harmony? Or is there some other sexual subtext like in this one (notice the nice bottle placement.) 

The first ads like this that I really took notice of were the ones for Skyy Vodka. I noticed these mostly because I love vodka. I mean I really love vodka, especially back when I was in college. I remember watching The Young & the Restless years ago when Nikki had a drinking problem and would fill up her "water"glass with the spirit to hide her problem from Jack. I mean, how fucking stupid was he? Vodka doesn't have much of a smell but it sure doesn't smell like water! Anyway what I got from that whole story line was the realization that vodka could be drunk first thing in the morning from a tumbler.  Anyway, lately Skyy has been producing a number of heinously sexist ads but the ones I first noticed in mags like Entertainment Weekly were pretty tame by comparison.

Another thing I've noticed is that unlike the ads targeting black consumers, the black women used in these mainstream alcohol advertisements usually have darker skin tones. If the model in the ad represents easy sex then I guess that when it come time to make his move, the white man doesn't want booze googles clouding his judgement. I mean, could you imagine the humiliation and hurt feelings some guy would feel if he spent all night hitting on an Aisha Tyler dead-ringer at the club only to take her home and discover the next morning that he actually brought home Angelina Jolie in brown pancake makeup? No, light skin is not in for these ads, the chick must be identifiably black. 

From the facial expression on this woman, the chick has to be dark... and unhappy. Hell I guess I'd be unhappy too if the only thing I could find to wear to a fancy party was my curtains. Top that off by arriving and finding out that the only brother there is gay?! She's in for a long night and the only spirit at the bar is Hennessy. Disgusting. When I am out and feeling like this all I can think about is my TiVo.

I posted before about this 10 Cane Rum ad and I'm still mad about the old man in the dingy. I guess if that's the white guy's only competition for the affections of this Nubian goddess, he's in a pretty good position to close the deal. Especially if she's loaded. I guess I'm just more of a land person because I could not be that relaxed just floating on a boat. Hasn't she seen Jaws?

This Belvedere Vodka ad is more of a warning than anything. Black girls, please look at the skankitude that is Vincent Gallo. If that is what a night of drinking and partying will lead to then take a good long look (and smell) of him, then look at yourself, take off your fuck me pumps, hail a cab and go home. 

Wangechi Mutu

Breakthrough Kenyan artist Wangechi Mutu was born in Nairobi, Kenya but lives and works in New York City where she moved almost 20 years ago to study anthropolgy and fine art.

Her work often focuses on the themes of black identity across the diaspora and womanism, connecting the dots of those hot-button issues in the black experience across cultures that tie us all together. 

I first became aware of her from (of all things) an article in Vogue magazine that profiled the emerging artist. If I remember correctly, it was probably focused on her beautiful "exotic" features and stature more than her work and core influences.

Anyway, I found myself really drawn to her work which at the time was comprised of painted and collaged images of the female form, many including images cut from actual fashion magazines. Speaking as a person addicted to ripping out and filing away pages from fashion magazines, I could relate. 

The figures have been called grotesque, sci-fi, and oddly beautiful 'saterical mutilations' that create a new kind of improved-upon beauty that speaks to the never ending quest for superficial improvement that has become part of Western group think. 

Smart lady that you should check out. Also, she looks phenomenal in a hat.

Source: Elle, Saatchi Gallery

Keisha Whitaker in Fendi RTW - Fall 2008 @ The ESPY Awards

This runway model looks like death on her way to an after work function.

Keisha is addicted to the elegant little black dress. I don't blame her because the little black dress will never steer you wrong but once again, it would be nice to see her wear some color. I mean, this is the ESPY Awards for goodness sake! Why wear black when you just know there is going to be some baller sitting a row behind you in a Day-Glo orange pinstriped suit? It's not like the woman is trying to hide a few extra pounds, embrace the color pallet girl. You can do it! Go towards the light, and don't forget to pass the jewel tones on your way!

S: Style and LSA

Nicole Murphy in Stella McCartney Spring 2008

This one is easy for me. I've never been a fan of Nicole Murphy's personal style but I think she owns this look hands down. I'm eternally jealous of women who can wear hats. I wish my own head wasn't so damn big. Last time I managed to squeeze a cute little brimmed Coach hat on my head I nearly had a stroke from the lack of oxygen to my brain. Seriously, I couldn't walk in a straight line for a week.  Photos: Lipstick Alley and Style.com

That Hair Thing

You can't look at images of black models in fashion magazines without noticing that there seems to be a fear of kinky black hair in the industry. Unless it is played for laughs, like in Moschino's recent advertisement, naturally kinky hair on a model is a no no. I recall reading an interview with Veronica Webb where she mentioned that she got individual braids once and her bookings stopped almost immediately. She had to run and take them out to keep working.

In fashion there are three acceptable ways for black models to wear their hair: shaved close to the scalp so as not to offend, weaved up, or relaxed (preferably with extensions to add length.) I've read the stories countless times told by models who have had their hair destroyed by stylists who don't know what to do with it. Even Naomi, who is the queen of the flawless weave, has been sporting a fragile looking hairline these days.

That's why I love baby-faced model Wakeema Hollis who is one of the few regularly working black models who sports natural hair longer than an inch. Occasionally TPTB slap a wig or extensions on her but her hair (along with those lips and long graceful neck) have become her signature. Interestingly, she is also in that Moschino ad wearing an afro wig. Go figure.

sources: simplylovely/TFS, models.com, Myspace, WhyNot

Vogue Italia is a hot seller according to WWD

from Women's Wear Daily

HOT ISSUE: While tech heads on Friday lined up at the Apple store to buy the latest iPhone, fashionistas evidently hurried to newsstands across New York City to get their hands on the July Italian Vogue featuring all black models. By 10 a.m., Universal News on 58th Street and Eighth Avenue, near the Hearst Tower, had already sold 50 copies, with 50 more left in stock. Hudson News in Grand Central Station sold 20 copies by 11 a.m., with another 30 left to sell. By noon, Universal News on 56th Street and Lexington Avenue had sold its last issue, and the one on 14th Street near Sixth Avenue had sold over 100 copies, with a few more left to move.

Condé Nast prepped accordingly for the increased consumer curiosity surrounding the themed issue, where Steven Meisel shot the likes of Naomi Campbell, Alek Wek, Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede, Veronica Webb and upcoming names like Sessilee Lopez and Toccara Jones. A spokeswoman for Condé said the company increased newsstand distribution of the special issue by 40 percent in the U.S., and will reallocate Italian copies earmarked for returns to the U.S. The company will also print another 10,000 copies to meet the demand for the issue. "Franca Sozzani is a brilliant editor whose courage and originality never cease to astonish. Working in collaboration with Steven Meisel she has produced a groundbreaking issue, which in a small way, changes the world. I am very proud of it," said Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Condé Nast International. Ironically, Vogue Italia wasn't available at the two places most likely to carry the issue — the Hudson News at Condé Nast's headquarters at 4 Times Square and the newsstand at Condé's satellite offices at 750 Third Avenue did not carry the issue on Friday. Store clerks at both locations expected to have copies by Monday.

Joy Bryant

Joy Bryant is another actress who's style I really admire. No matter how elegant the clothing she wears is, she always keeps the hair and makeup relatively simple. She is proof that skeletal stylist Rachel Zoe actually has some talent at putting outfits together. I was actually surprised when I read Zoe's book and found out that they work together almost exclusively. I suppose it helps that Bryant is a former model and know how to wear the clothing  without looking like just another hanger. In my fantasies, she will play me in Make Fetch Happen: The Movie. The above article is from an old issue of Vogue (Nov. 2003 IIRC) and the photos below were all gleaned from The Fashion Spot.

Kelly Rowland & Jennifer Hudson @ the Keep A Child Alive Black Ball

Kelly is wearing Ralph Lauren Spring '08 and JHud is wearing a slightly modified version of this Escada Fall/Winter '08 dress. I don't think the dresses look bad on either runway model but that bright yellow really pops against Kelly's skintone and thanks to her newly enhanced figure, she fills it out more. I like the print of Jennifer's dress and I think that halter neckline compliments her vast boobage. 

Source: Style.com, LSA and Photobucket

On the Newsstand: Domino Magazine August 2008

These days I anticipate the new issue of Domino magazine way more than the new Vogue. That said, the last few issues have been kind of hard to tell apart. I love environmentally friendly furniture too but how many times do I need to see "recycled" pieces of furniture priced in the thousands of dollars? I was surprised and pleased when the new (August) issue arrived in my mailbox this afternoon because 1) the issue is partially devoted to decorating on a realistic budget and 2) there was an honest to God woman of color on the cover! Upon closer inspection I realized that it was none other than Mara Brock Akil, the producer of two shows I really enjoy, the dearly departed Girlfriends and The Game. As you probably know Mara and Shonda Rhimes are the only Black women producing multiple shows for the networks. While I never really got Grey's (I just can't stand the main character,) I was surprised by how much I am loving The Game, even though I hate football. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that Akil will get to try her hand at producing a drama soon. In the meantime, here are the photos of her home and gorgeous family. There definitely some design inspiration there:

I also got my Entertainment Weekly (July 18th issue) and if you're interested there is a brief commentary titled: "It's Time to Put Black Actresses in Hollywood Blockbusters" by Maureaux Watson. I couldn't agree more. I think it's very strange that Will Smith is the biggest movie star in the world yet studios are hesitant to cast a black woman as his love interest in all those blockbuster movies.

ETA: The trailer for "Medicine for Melancholy" -- a film I would definitely leave my house to see. Plus Kavbojka Klub's take on it & Invisible Woman's review of the film.

New Grace Jones Video - Corporate Cannibal

I just love her.

Arlenis for Lancome?

According to the rumor mill @ Fashionista, Arlenis Sosa Peña will be the new face at Lancome. The beautiful 19 year old Dominican is fresh off the heels of her appearances this month in both Italian and American Vogue and was said to have garnered a lot of attention at this year's Costume Gala at the Met. If the rumor is true, I hope she has a lot of success with the brand and I really look forward to seeing those ads. I can't believe that she's been modeling for such a short period of time.

Photo credit: Arlenis photographed by Jason Kibbler for Interview Magazine/scanned by Dieselmax

Is Colures Magazine an answered prayer?

The short answer is YES!

Like a few of you I've been stalking magazine stands waiting in vain to get my own copy of Vogue Italia. While hanging out at the bookstore last weekend I noticed that they were carrying Colures Magazine. I'd first heard about it from a poster on Racialicious but stopped short or ordering a few copies because the price was a bit steep at $20 an isse (the magazine in printed in the UK.)

Barnes & Noble had it for $7.99 so I scooped it up (along with the new issue of BITCH) immediately. I half way expected it to read like another UK magazine Black Pride that I've picked up on occassion but found Colures to be more of what I was looking for in a black fashion and lifestyle magazine. Really, it is worth every penny. The extremely high quality magazine looks and feels like Flaunt or Black Book but for brown people. It's printed on heavy magazine stock and the overwhelming majority of the content is original (photo spreads included.)

What caught my eye immediately is that in spite of an article with Kelly Rowland of Destiny's Child, the cover features the gorgeous model Jessica White who appears in a sultry multipage spread that would put Essence Magazine to shame. Visually, the magazine is very appealling. One complaint I always had about the dearly departed Suede Magazine was that the layout was often cluttered like someone in the editing department had gone mad with clipart application. Not so here where the lines are very clean and eyecatching. There are a few celebrity features but the magazine isn't overtaken with them which for me is a plus. I hate reading a fashion magazine and seeing pictures or references that I read on the Internet months before. 

The overall editorial content is very strong with articles on everything from bridal lingerie and bell hooks, to travel, food intolerance and of course fashion - pages and pages of it. I loved the profile on Sandra Teichman which proved that someone can be beautiful and have a career that doesn't involve taking a puppy shopping in your oversized handgbag. Which isn't to say that there isn't also a page or two devoted to those bags and where to get them. 

Really it's that good, not perfect, but as close as any effort in recent memory has come.

One somewhat disturbing note is that aside from a few haircare and travel ads, there isn't a lot of advertising. In spite of the high price tag clothing worn by Jessica and some of the other models, none of those designers bought any space which is troublesome in a magazine of this quality...because it sure as hell wasn't produced on the cheap. 

I really implore you to call around and see if your local bookstore carries the title and please buy it. I would hate to see something like this not get a chance to really find its voice or its audience.

You can also order from the Colures website here.

Alek Wek from Eluxury Catalog

I have a drawer full of pages that I've ripped out of magazines and catalogs over the years. These are of Alek Wek from an old Eluxury catalog.

Rihanna Covers InStyle

Which is more peculiar, the expression on her face on this cover or the her expression and pose on the June issue of ELLE? Don't these photo editors know that the beauty of digital photography is that you can take hundreds of photos and then use the BEST one for the cover? Also, what's with the overload of tag-lines these days?

She's Got the Look: The Final

The end is finally here. After weeks of passive buildup. The first winner of TVLand's "She's Got the Look" has been revealed.

The show starts with a review of how we got here. I was only half listening but the voice over said something about thousands applying before being widdled down to 20 and then to our 10 finanlist.

There were some doozies in that bunch but the stand out in the application round for me was Ernestine, the fifty something woman with the Crystal Gayle length blonde braids and the skin tight lepord leotard. How she was passed up for the likes of Angry Paula we will never know. I can only hope that Ernestine has a closetful of those getups and will be back to audtion for season two. If there is a season 2.

Anyway, let us begin. As usual, the show starts with the ladies in the loft. Apparently, it is two am because they all look beat.

Celeste once again confesses to being over the top in everything she does and she's not about to let this little show "embellish upon me." I wonder what it's like to sit at the breakfast table with Celeste and her husband Bill:

Bill: Celeste, my toast is ensconsed in the toaster oven.

Celeste: Bill darling, please embellish my english muffin with Polaner's All-fruit

Karin on the other hand, has learned to look in the mirror. I think we all would have been better served had she learned how to walk like she's not looking for crack rocks on the sidewalk but to each her own.

She adds, "I am discovering what I look like...When I came here I felt like I was here to be the comic relief because I was the ugly one..."

Awww, I hate when people call themselves ugly. Unless that person is Biz Markie and then I would  just change the subject.

At least Karin got a new haircut from this contest because that crusty straw mullet she walked in with was not doing her any favors.

Bahia has realized a dream and I have realized that although she is an attractive woman, she doesn't look that great for 37. I mean best of luck to her but she's never going to be in that "Black Don't Crack" issue of Essence. Mostly because she's not black but also because she looks every bit her age and then some.

Tanya mumbles something about being true to herself while the show reviews some of her awful wardrobe choices. It is alway 1992 in her closet.

Robot Kim Alexis congratulates the ladies on making it this far and tells them that their challenge is to come up with an idea for their SELF cover based on the "You at Your Best" theme.

Bahia shares that although she is a creative person but not like this. My question is how can you consider yourself a creative if you've never created something?

The challenge is supposed to encompass all that they've learned in the house. The only thing that I've learned as a viewer came from Paula and I'm not sure how I would go about putting all that on a piece of poster board.

Celeste tries to get us to believe that this challenge will be hard for her because she doesn't "talk much about herself or think about who [she] is." Yeah right. I bet she prepares a dozen index cards full of talking points before she goes to the gynocologist.

I'll mention here that Celeste is wearing about a half dozen pieces of "ethnic" jewelry in this scene. Seriously, it looks like she was shopping for it at Cost Plus right before a bomb went off.

Her board is going to be about the representation of a young body on an older woman. Celeste you look good but come on already.

Tanya...well, I don't know what Tanya was talking about but it has something to do with bubbles. She says, "If they send me home after this then it's time for me to go home." Thank you Siddharta.

Commercial Break: George Foreman has a new reality show and his wife has some seriously thick eyebrows. They're a Tweezerman's dream come true.

Now the ladies are meeting with the editors at SELF to unveil their ideas. Bahia is wearing that awful tinsle suit again. Really, is she homeless or something?

Her theme is "I Am Enough." which isn't bad. She presents a storyboard with a photo of herself sans makeup sitting in bed. The editors take one look at that suit and call bullshit on her theme. If she was "enough" then why stroll into an interview wearing a Christmas tree's cast-offs?

This pissed Bahia off. She hates being judged by women because women always tell other women that they are too sexy. I feel you Bahia but that suit still looks like shit.

Tanya's theme is "Beauty is a Journey, Not a Destination." In the middle of her storyboard is a bathtub that Kim Alexis thinks looks like a pot of chilli. The editors ask her why this journey ends in a bathtub and she can't really answer. She should have said that the bathtub is where she takes her Xantax but I guess she ran out of time.

I need to stop here to talk about Tanya's hair. In every one of her confessional pieces she looks like she just took the exit ramp off the freeway on the back of someone's moped without a helmet. There is no helping that woman if she thinks that hairstyle looks good to anyone except a bird in search of a home.

Celeste is up next. Her theme is "Ageless: Reaching for New Heights." She mentions that she's fifty three time and that she's fifty-one four times. Then she strips down to a workout outfit to show how fit she is at 50. Even the judges are annoyed.

Karin the Swede goes last and her theme is the Birth of Beauty. Her photo shows her peaking through the curtains in the loft and she's dressed like a riding instructor. That's all I think I need to say.

The judges deliberate. After a commercial from the AARP, Celeste is sent packing and actually has a very gracious exit. She only mentions that she's 50 four times.

Now the remaining women must realize their idea with help from a team of stylists and a photographer.

The photographer Ben Watts sounds like George Michael but looks like CNN's Richard Quest, if Richard Quest was a boxer instead of a reporter. He is also clearly not thrilled to be working on a second rate reality show because this dude is crabby. He seems to hate everyone's idea but has to go along because dental procedures aren't cheap and dude has some gnarly teeth.

Nothing much interesting happens here or at panel so lets just skip to the end. The ladies have their ideas reviewed. Bahia is dismissed first, she says that after all the hair and makeup treatments she can never go back to living in a van. She leaves behind Tanya (who looks fantastic with a new curly hairdo) and Karin.

After a bit of back and forth Tanya is declared the winner and I'm happy for her because I feel kinda like my mom won. The tagline on her SELF cover should read "They Stabbed Me Seven Times But I'm Still Here Bitches!" but they'll probably go with something tamer.

Sigh. What am I going to watch now?

ETA: So, every now and then I'll check to see what keywords people are using when they find my site because sometimes, it's just damn funny how they get here. Anyway, one thing that I've noticed is that one of the top keyword searches that lands visitors here this week is some variation of: Is Tanya from "She's Got the Look" black? Now, I'm not going to delve too deeply into this, that's what Racialicious is for, but to answer those dozen or so people (all but one from the South) who just have to know, the answer is yes. Tanya was profiled here and goes into her background quite a bit.

"Champagne Furs" - Toccara Jones - Italian Vogue July 2008

I had no idea Toccara would get a full spread in the issue. The "scantily clad woman in a garage" theme has been done to death and I'm definitely not a fan of models being photographed in car trunks  but I'll give her this much, she looks great and even though she's not a model on the caliber of Jourdan or Chanel, I'm glad she was included...even if technically, she's not modeling actual clothes. Her boobs are the size of my head. Also, did Costco have a sale on cheetah skin? It seems to be popping up a LOT in this issue.

source: BWGreyscale

More Italian Vogue Pics...

Seriously, the entire magazine is going to be online before anyone I know actually gets to buy it. These pics and several more are up at this site.

Instead of looking at models dressed up like Grace Jones, I would like to see Grace in the issue. I'm really hoping there is a group shot of the older and newer faces.

A few days ago I was hanging out in Borders and watched a highly irate sister asking the customer service clerk about the issue. She said she's already been to five stores and wanted an answer about when the issue would be in DAMMIT!

Lord, if white folks think Michelle Obama is scary they're not going to know what to do with several thousand black women that want their magazine fix yesterday! I don't know about you but I'm just about ready to start coloring in the faces of models in my other fashion magazines.

Women's Track and Field Fashion

Allyson Felix in Vogue, April 2008

I am always very excited when the Summer Olympics come around because it means I get to spend quality time on my couch watching Track & Field.

I'm really going to miss living in Europe and getting to watch the coverage on Eurosports Network where they you know, actually show more of the games than just the beach volleyball competition. Why anyone would want to watch a bunch of women picking swimsuit bottoms out of their asses is something I don't understand. I guess it's a guy thing. Personally, I'd rather watch the women's powerlifting segment. 

Anyway, in addition to making me feel ashamed of my increasingly jiggly thighs, I'm always keen to see just what the female track and field competitors will be wearing. I still remember being in awe of the beautiful and flashy Flo-Jo during the 1988 games. Supremely talented and beautiful, I just could not get enough of all that hair, those nails, the one legged suits. She had to be the inspiration for Serena on the tennis court. 

I was really impressed with Allyson Felix in Athens last time so I'm looking forward to watching her compete again and of course I am DYING to see what the Jamaican 4x100 relay team is going to put together this year. Those one piece suits they wore in Athens just killed it.

Naomi Campbell and Stefano Pilati on i-D Magazine

She really is everywhere right now. YSL seems to be making the most of this collaboration. I think her skin looks flawless here but her positioning is a little...odd.

source:scanned by Northern Star

"Modern Luxe" - Italian Vogue - July 2008

The women, of course, are gorgeous and it's nice to see a mix of new models like Arlenis with some of the older supermodels like Karen Alexander and Gail O'Neil but this spread seems uneven to me. The clothes and styling don't particularly tie together and so from the fact that all the women are black, there's no real theme here. To be honest, these photos kind of look like high class mug shots. Also, I was willing to forgive the fur the animal print in Sessilee's beautiful black & white spread but there's a bit too much of it here in my opinion.

source:bwgreyscale

ELLE Shops Around the World

 

I was paging through a recent issue of ELLE magazine when I stopped on the "Elle Shops" section. It seems the monthly spread devoted to what to buy where has come down with a serious case of "ethnic" fever. No doubt this is a calculated move to answer the call of the confused fashionista who wants desperately to go native but is too afraid to open their purse in front of the brown skinned vendor. Thankfully, ELLE makes it simple.  Under headings like "Desert Heat," "Latin Class," 'Zen Garden" and "Big Sky," are dozens of dresses, shoes and accessories by top designers that will help the reader mimick what those trendy natives are wearing without fear of being ostracized for not having the right label on the inside of the garment. Are you a fashion tourist in search of one of those trendy kente cloth bikinis but want to retain the ability to hail a cab? No problem,  for $163 you can order one from Red Carter. If the Native American look is what you are after but you've heard that Indians are extinct fear not, because Emilio Pucci offers a beaded suede vest for a mere $2,765.  Want to look like a Gauguin girl but need vanity sizing? Pick up DVF's floral gown for $425. Lastly, to reassure readers that these are styles that can be pulled off easily by the majority, the accompanying photos in the layouts only feature white skinned models to legitimize the style you crave. Happy shopping!

ETA:

Vogue's King Kong Issue Fails to Scare Up Big Numbers

In spite of all the controversy surrounding the LeBron James/Gisele cover back in April of this year, the issue did not prove to be a winner at the newsstand for Vogue Magazine. According to Portfolio and ABC Rapid Report, the issue sold 350K copies at the newsstand compared to the 452K copy average for last year in this quarter.  The LeBron/Gisele cover was the worst selling April issue since 2001 (which featured Renee Zellweger on the cover.) That said, it is still not the worst selling issue of 2008, so far that honor belongs to the May issue which featured milk toast actress Gwenyth Paltrow.

In the words of Nelson Muntz, "HA-ha!"

From Youtube - More Pics from Italian Vogue

Magazines: Muslim Girl

I came across this magazine a few months ago while loitering at a bookstore. Muslim Girl is a bi-monthly magazine aimed at Muslim American teenagers that launched last year. 

Like any other magazine for teen girls, it is filled with affordable budget friendly fashion and beauty tips but it many of the articles have a more serious tone that deal specifically with the challenges these young women face and it's pages are filled with profiles on worthy role models (you know, the kind that don't upload their own nude pictures online or carry small dogs in big purses.)

The layout and photographs are very high quality and the content is both entertaining and informative. The issue I picked up even listed Suzanne Boyd of Suede fame as a contributing editor. From my perspective, it gives the non-Muslim reader a glimpse into the many different ways that young Muslim women work and play in our society. The fashions come from the same places that a lot of young women shop like The Gap and H&M but with a more modest spin and the models used in the editorials are beautiful young women of every ethnicity, some wearing hijab head scarves and some not. The advice column is the same as in any other magazine but with questions like "what should I do about a non-Muslim boy who keeps asking me out but doesn't understand that I don't date?"

All in all, I found it to be a high quality magazine that I'd probably pick up again even knowing that I'm probably a good twenty years outside of its age demographic. I wish there were more magazines like this out when I was a teenager.

She's Got the Look: In the Kitchen with Daisy

I know at least one person reads these recaps, so to that lady, I'm sorry it took so long for me to publish this. I had Tivo issues last week. 

Anyway, the beginning of this week's show finds the ladies back at the apartment.  

Tanya comments that the competition is getting pretty intense which is kind of funny to me because this is probably the least stressful competition reality show I have ever seen. With the exception of Paula's brilliant ranting in episode two, this has largely been a stress free affair. 

Karin pipes in and says that the house dynamic has changed. By this, she means that there are no contestants left who have trouble walking --cut to Hope impersonating Melissa's stomp and Roxanne's crazy shoulder rolling walk. I guess you just have to see, it because it is kind of funny.  

Kim Alexis' voicemail informs the ladies that there will be an acting challenge. At least, I think it was Kim's voicemail but to be perfectly honest, I can't tell the difference between Kim's recorded voice and her natural one. She talks and moves like she has a battery pack in her ass. I've see Teddy Ruxpin bears that act more natural. 

Bahia is nervous about the challenge and tells Celeste that she will probably be better at this than she is. In time the viewing audience will learn how very wrong she is about that assumption. 

The ladies are taken to the Soho Playhouse where they are introduced to acting coach Dave Mowers who informs them that they will do some improv work and a cold reading for some fake automotive school commercial. 

Celeste says something about being 50. 

Tanya is called up first and in her confessional shares that she has absolutely no desire to be an actress which I am pretty sure is a first for a reality show contestant. Next comes Celeste who's hair weave is not looking so hot. The front of her hair is sticking up like she was Cameron Diaz's spermed hair stunt double in There’s Something About Mary. Her reading is as fake as can be. Seriously, it's like someone pretending to be a bad actress on a sitcom.  I couldn't understand a word Karin said during her reading so I'm just going to leave that one alone. 

For the first challenge the women are split up into two groups and must write a commercial about greeting cards in which someone cries. Acting coach Dave lets Tanya pick the groups because she was "brave" and went first when he made her. How exactly is that brave? She puts Hope and Karin in her own group and pairs Celeste and Bahia which already sounds like comedic gold. 

Tanya's group tries to figure out which one of them can cry on cue and I wonder if they'd been paying attention at all during Karin's frequent tear sessions. Tanya volunteers that she can "go there" if she needs to and I'm thinking that of course she can because she was stabbed seven times. Hell, I cry every time I think about that. Somehow inexplicably, Hope end up with the task. 

Karin has trouble asserting herself so Tanya and Hope come up with the whole concept which had something to do with Hope being alone on her birthday and then her friends come in and surprise her with a card. What kind of friends are these? I don't want a stinking card on my birthday, I want booze and cake. Anyway, the dreadful commercial ends with Hope being unable to cry.

Next up is Celeste and Bahia. Celeste decides that she and Bahia should pretend they are in a split screen like that Micheal McDonald/Patti Label video for “On My Own.” In this version, both of them a sisters who receive the one another’s card on the same day. Oh, and they're Algerian because Celeste wanted to speak with an accent. If a fake accent didn’t work for Kevin Costner in Robin Hood, why will it work here? 

To say Celeste is a terrible actress is an understatement. After watching her over the top ACTING!  I am convinced that she couldn't act wet in a bathtub. How does someone so fake not know how to deliver a few lines? Bahia goes to some dark place in her part and manages to shed a few tears. Maybe she was remembering the trapeze challenge or something. 

Somehow, they get the victory and are told that a special surprise is waiting for them in the loft. Celeste is criticized for being over the top but says: 

“Yes, as always Celeste Johnson is over the top, that is part of my personality. I have a gusto for life that I am not going to give up because someone tells me I'm over the top!" 

Fair enough Celeste. 

Commercial break: an ad for the AARP 

Back at the loft, a banker and a real estate agent appear to have entered the apartment. Except that it's actually Celeste's husband Bill (c'mon, we all knew she was married to an old white guy) and Bahia's best friend Liz. They are the surprise. Bill shares that Celeste thinks that he is "ensconsed in Chicago." Or was it entombed?  Bill estimate the resell value of the loft, no doubt wondering how Celeste manages to live in such cramped quarters while Liz spies her shoes on the floor need Bahia's bed. 

Bill says, “I can't wait to see the look on her face!” When the ladies come back and discover the surprise, we discover that the look on Celeste's face is the same look she always has on her face, surprised with a faint sheen on Fake No. 5. Bill and Celeste have one thing in common, they both love Celeste. Hope is impressed with Bill, commenting that Celeste "landed herself a winner." Although Bill seemed like a perfectly nice man I would have killed to see who would have walked through the door for Roxanne and Paula. 

After the newness of the surprise fades, the rest of the women are left to suck their teeth about missing out on the chance to see their loved ones. Karin starts crying (again) about missing her boyfriend who I imagine at a seven foot tall Strongman competitor. Hope feels bad that because of her, the others may have lost out on something so important. Later she apologizes to Karin for ignoring her during commercial writing. An apology and regret? This is yet another first for reality TV.  

Next we see Bahia, Celeste, Bill and Liz at dinner. Oh I should add that Bahia is wearing a seriously fug jacket that not only is two sizes too small but also looks like it was made from steel wool. Everyone seems to be having a great time. Celeste toasts the group: 

We are toasting to life. Here's to life, love, life, happiness, success, good health, wonderful wealth, and perfect self-expression!

 I know, huh? If I knew Celeste in real life, I think she would drive me nuts. 

The next day, that woman from SELF shows up again this time to bore the women about relaxation. She lights some candles, makes them lay on the floor...turns on some Marvin Gaye music...and, well okay, there was no Marvin but there should have been. 

Final challenge day and the ladies are told that they will be doing a commercial with Daisy Fuentes who appears wearing a school marm’s floral blouse and camel toe pants. They will be helping Daisy sell something called Fuentes Fruit Fritatas on an infomercial. 

Jokes on the ladies because of course, the product isn't real and to make matters worse Daisy has spiked to mix with hot sauce, salt and cod liver oil to see how the ladies react. Hysterical huh? If I wanted to see that prank I'd watch Fear Factor. The rundown: 

Karin seriously acts like a meth-head and has apparently lost all control of her limbs. When she's on camera with Daisy she's so weird an jumpy that I feared for her safety. Hope can't pronounce dairy and keeps shutting her eyes. In confessional she adds that the frittata tasted like shit. Celeste is Celeste.  Tanya does okay but really who cares, it's a crappy product and the acting always sucks on infomercials. Bahia mistakenly tells Daisy after the commercial that the product is disgusting to which everyone feigns offense, causing Bahia to feel really bad. I felt bad too because Bahia was wearing that awful jacket again. 

They should just pull a name out of a hat at elimination. Clearly Karin was the worst but the judges let her stay and give Hope the boot. Who's going to do the snappy one-liners now judge? Hope does manage to leave on a high note with some class. I'll miss her.

Sessilee Lopez for Italian Vogue - July 2008

I just love this spread. Black and white photos evoke such a vintage style and frankly, I never get tired of looking at Sessillee Lopez's face. She is a truly unique beauty. Enjoy!

Source: Major Models

Britain's Next Top Model is Down with Colonial Chic

Background: This is one of the images from a challenge shoot on Britain's version of "America's Next Top Model." Apparently, the women went to South Africa and had a photo shoot with Zulu dancers. The rest of the photos can be seen here.

Looking at these photos (the type of which I have literally seen in fashion a hundred times before) makes me sick. Really, I am really disgusted by the persistence of this type of exploitative imagery in fashion. It really boggles my mind that for some people, the first thing that pops into their mind when seeing any African person in traditional dress is "Wow, that thing would make a great prop for my photo." There is no such thing as subtle contrast in that photographer's eye, there is only, "wouldn't it look cool to have a white woman in expensive clothes standing in front of black Africans? I mean, they're so savage and dangerous but she is so in control!" Honestly, I think it borders on pornographic. 

Source

Naomi Spread from July 2008 Italian Vogue

Yep, another Naomi post but at least this one is a provides a peak inside the July issue of Italian Vogue.  These pictures are pretty much what I'd expect from Steven Meisel (lush colors, lonely women and expensive lingerie.) I find it amusing that they managed to work Naomi's YSL Hammer pants into the spread. Does she ever take those things off?

Source: Style.it, 212DRESSINGROOM

Ebony Magazines Defines Cool

From the press release:

For the FIRST TIME EVER, Ebony magazine defines Black Cool in an exclusive 8-cover feature unlike anything you’ve seen before. In this historic collector’s edition, we will name the 25 coolest brothers of all time. These brothers radiate confidence and have an alluring charisma that sets the standard. From their sleek, debonair styles to their smooth-as-silk personas, these magnificent Black men have conveyed, captured and conquered the quintessence of “cool” while making it appear effortless.

The cover choices aren't very imaginative but the inclusion of Barack and Marvin Gaye are nice touches. The series is more evidence that Ebony is trying to change up its image a bit. Celebrity covers get attention but I would be very happy if the editors at Ebony made an attempt to fill the void left by Emerge Magazine. 

Source: Ebony

Few Black Models at Paris Fashion Week

Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman walk for JPG in Paris (Style.com)

It's been a good month for some black models in magazines but so far that upswing  hasn't carried over onto the runway yet. 

All eyes are on Paris now where designers are presenting their Fall 2008 collections but once again very few of those elegantly tailored pantsuits and cage dresses are resting on the bodies of black models. According to designers Jean-Paul Gaultier and Mario Lefranc, agencies just don’t have any black models at the moment.  "I asked the modeling agency for black girls for our next show but there simply aren't any," said Lefranc.

Is it just me? Or do you wonder where these people are looking when they claim that they can’t find any black models? I subscribe to a thread @ TheFashionSpot devoted to  new black faces and could honestly name a few dozen off the top of my head that have the look but don't seem to get the work.  And honestly, what kind of an agency tells a client they can’t find any and leaves it at that?  An agency can find black models the same way they find white ones, by leafing through comp cards; scouting or at open calls. Seriously, look for the tall slouching girl with the good skin, and high cheekbones and introduce yourself. It’s not rocket science. 

And let me add this,  as much as I really like to see black women on the runway I am hoping that designers don’t go the P. Diddy and D-Squared route and host a one off segregated show featuring only black models. To me responses like this miss the whole point, it’s never been about segregation. 

 Source: Style.com and EUR

Naomi's Hair Woes

I am hair obessed. Always have been. For this reason I stood up and took noticed when a lot of cybertalk appeared about the state of Naomi's hairline. Photographic evidence has confirmed that Miss Thang's edges are in serious need of help. Now, I'm not posting this to make fun of Naomi because I've been there. Broken edges are not to be taken lightly and can cause a girl (or a grown ass woman) to lose herself every now and then. This kind of frustration can take many forms. I for example, have thrown down my hair brush in disgust after looking at shed hairs in the skin. Maybe in Naomi's case, the cell phone was a closer reach. Maybe just maybe, one of those assistants of hers bounced into the room, blonde ponytail a'swingin' and told Naomi that she should just put on a baseball cap if she was having a bad hair day. Maybe this was not what Naomi needed to hear at that moment. I am here to help. Naomi, you are special. You know why? Because seriously, what other black woman could rock four feet of weave on a daily basis and not catch hell for it. We all remember that Michael Jackson video where you rocked that pony like a black Rapunzel at Freaknik. We don't know how you pulled it off but you did and we all gave you a pass. But seriously, girlfriend, that was in 1992. I know that on occasion you have been known to send that hair out to the cleaners and worn either a short bobbed wig or weave but you always seem run back, arms wide open, to re-embrace the pony. For the most part, it has always looked fly. Believe me, I may wear my own hair natural but I do not hate the weave. Bangs or no bangs, you always looked flawless and your weave was tight. Unfortunately, it has come to our attention that the weave was too tight, and the weight of all that hair and wear was taking it's toll. Girl, it is time to step backi from the yaki.

I remember reading an interview with you years and years ago in which you mentioned that you considered styling your hair in a short afro but somebody convinced you that you didn't have the right face for it. I am telling you right now that that person, whoever it was, was a hater. You had the face for it because you are freaking NAOMI CAMPBELL!!! If you created fire, that person would have tried to to stamp it out. Repeat this to yourself. You are not your weave. It's not like you haven't rocked the shorter styles before, it's not too late, you can go back....please, before it's too late and your hawking a line of synthetic wigs like Brandy. Here, I've assembled some photos here to remind you of how good you look without that mane

Option #1: Everyone loves a baldie:

Option #2: Just put a wrap on it

Option #3: In the summer months, braids are a girl's best friend

Option #4: Paging Ms. Fierce, party of one..

Option #5: Remember, keeping some texture does not mean losing the white boy

Option #6: A dollop of gel will get you out the door in 10 minutes

Option #7: Roller sets. Not just for Grandma anymore

Option #8: Get reacquainted with the feeling of a cool breeze on your neck!
 

Option #9: Look ma! No more neck pain!

Option #10: Remember, you are Naomi. You are the shit.

Photo sources: TheDefamer, TFS

Naomi on the Cover of Brazilian Vogue

July (and also Jan/Feb) are notoriously low selling months for magazines. They also seem to be the month that fashion magazines are most likely to put a black face on their covers. This July is no different thanks to the fabled (yet still unseen) issue Vogue Italia which has managed to put a slightly different spin on things. With all the hubbub, it is sure to be one of Italian Vogue's best selling issues of all time. Photographer Steven Meisel has said that he wanted this issue to make editors of the other editions of Vogue magazine to take note and "diversity their pages." So far, US Vogue has responded with an article called "Is Fashion Racist?" and a brief accompanying spread featuring three black models. The article wasn't mentioned on the cover or in the Editor's Letter. Thanks for playing Anna. I bet you anything that Anna Wintour is the type of woman that hands out diet pills and raisins on Halloween. In contrast, Vogue Brazil's July issue will feature the hardest throwing....I mean the hardest working model in the business Naomi Campbell. To the best of my knowledge Naomi has appeared at least one other time on the cover of Brazilian Vogue. The only other black model that I've ever seen cover the magazine was Margareth Lahoussaye-Duvigny.  Naomi's photos were snapped by David Bailey. This slideshow has a few of the interior pictures and Naomi's last cover for the magazine.

Sources: ferry coal, ego.globo, terra

Kerry Washington in Armani Privé S/S 2008

Ordinarily, I admire her fashion sense. Honestly, I think she's one of the most consistently best dressed actresses in Hollywood but I'm not sure how I feel about this ensemble. I think that for once,  I actually prefer it on the model. To get away with all the frothy pleating it helps if one is six foot tall and with not a curve in sight. It may just be the angle but I think that length on Kerry makes her look a little squatty.

Photo source: Jezebel and Style.com

Cosmopolitan Kenya - Who Knew?

I had no idea that there was a Kenyan edition of Cosmopolitan Magazine until I came across this photo of Ajuma Nasenyana on the cover.

Apparently, it launched in 2005 but I couldn't really find much else on the web about it. I'm not even sure if it is still being published. 

It's the second African edition of Cosmo (behind South Africa) and the magazines have many similarities. First of all, they share content, but there are an additional 30 pages of local content added to the Kenyan edition. Kenyan Cosmo also has a unique cover and chooses models for the editorial images which makes the Kenyan section "blacker" than the rest of the magazine. Lastly, the frank sexual discussion which made Cosmo famous in the US and other parts of the world are toned down quite a bit to bring it in line with local social mores.  According to The Guardian, this is the target audience: 

She is proud of being African, though she prefers to wear her hair straight. She is just as interested in having a career as a western woman, though perhaps more coy about sex.

I can't remember the last time I picked up an issue of American Cosmo. When I was younger it was always front and center in the supermarket right next to People Magazine by the cashier. Back then, reading it held a vouyeristic appeal. I may have been stuck in Tacoma with a bus pass that only worked on weekdays before 6 pm but they gave me a glimpse into what life was life for real women - women who traveled a lot, dated all kinds of men, had an unusual amount of sex and  dressed like extras from Dynasty. I imagined that all the ridiculous monthly quizzes were what these worldy women did to pass the time on their flights to exotic locations. I had a really active imagination back then. 

I'm not sure why no one ever imports these magazines for US consumption. I can only really speak for myself but I'd be very interested in reading African lifestyle magazines. I'm also continually peeved that networks like BET or TVOne haven't bought the rights to the Nigerian versions of Big Brother or America's Next Top Model. It would be a hell of an improvement over what they are airing now.